S´badisch - Malsch

Its good reputation attracts guests from the Palatinate via the Rhine. In this case, a Wörther Schlemmerquartett, which again held a “club meeting” on the right side of the Rhine. But this time we did not come to the Fanstadt, but in the Baden Outback, where a gastronomic discovery (the father-in-law of a member had given the tip... waited for four hungry pears. The speech comes from the restaurant “S’Badisch” in Malsch, whose name probably leaves no doubt at its right bank. Located about 20 km south of Karlsruhe and in the immediate vicinity of the town of Ettlingen, the beautiful semi-concrete house with the house number 36 is located in the center of the municipality of Malsch. It is recommended to have a navigation-assisted approach as you can drive the many one-way roads in madness. Even the parking situation is not optimal, but a small walk before and after the meal is not damaged. Already on our arrival we were positively surprised. The lovingly designed terrace, surrounded by greenery, offered Mediterranean flair. The lukewarm summer evening has its tranquility and allows to enjoy the outdoors. Even inside, we felt comfortable. The restaurant, decorated in vintage look, resembled a South French diocese red instead of a Baden restaurant. Antique furniture and many decorative accessories on tables, dresses and window benches have been added to an extremely individual country house style that reflects the motto of the restaurant well. “Male, vile, fine”. With these three attributes, the two operators Barbara Droht and Sabine Darge introduce the culinary direction that were also found on the large-scale host house sign in front of the house. For five years they have been carrying this culinary jewel with a lot of passion and attention. From crocheted table tops to lush floral decoration to Shabby style decoration. Everything works here as if it were carefully coordinated. No wonder, because “s’Badisch” is firmly in the hands of women. And so it was only female servicemen who worried us well tonight. The reception was very warm and despite the high guest appearance – the complete terrace was occupied this evening – we were served carefully and politely. A Crodino Secco (5.50 Euros and a quarter of the Grauer Burgundy from the Bimmerle Winery of Orteau (5.90 Euros to the aperitif let us slide well into the evening. The first thirst was deleted with a bottle of mineral water from the brand Taunusquelle (5.20 Euro). The freshly tapped Chainr Pils (0.3l for 2.80 euros from Pforzheim was a bit too hearty for the colleague. We received enough time to study the artistically designed food and beverage map. Her first page made clear that it is also very popular to cook over the bad side of the dish. Classical combinations, sometimes regionally inspired, sometimes seasonally influenced by a varied cuisine that did not taste with Mediterranean accents. Baked shrimps, beef carpaccio and baked goat cheese were offered as starters. Supplemented by a pumpkin and a shaking crème. The small “exploratory”. These tempting mini ports were due to the fact that we fed through the appetizer program at very moderate prices. In addition, there were ten different main dishes. Here was a very broad balance between traditional cuisine of good-bourgeois origin (Rumpsteak, Schnitzel, Onion Roses and Calfstafelspitz and more ambitious creations (Maishähnchen an Couscous-Salat, Surf and Turf in bad way, Kalbsrückensteak an Pfifferling-Rahm-Sauce. With semmelknödeln and Tagliatelle was also thought of the vegetarians. And so it happened that we ordered some of these “Tapas” before our main courses. We tried both cream soups (each 2.50 euros, served with cream hood in a small glass. The pumpkin creams as well as the creamy-acidified cake creams were witnessed by a safe hand in the taste. The honest processing of basic seasonal products was clearly at the top. The waiver of convenience and other kitchen helpers, for Koch Barbara D threatens a naturalness, was delicious with every spoon. The juicy shrimps in the crispy shell (5.50 euros) also fell very harmoniously on orientally shaped lens salad. No dominant, smooth dough shell, no penetrant fat flavor. Instead, kicked to the point and therefore of fantastic consistency. So high quality and refined with fine parsley and garlic, the frog legs “Elsaese Art” (6.50 euros in an aromatic cream sauce on the plate. The mixed leaf salad with fried peppers and parmesan pears (10 euros) was also a lucky makers. It is good that the small portions have enough space for the remaining main courses. We also needed it because, above all, “s’Badisch-Schnitzel” (19 Euro) appeared in large proportion. Crispy roast potatoes were added to the pork carving plant filled with green cheese. A small salad plate was also included in the “Signature Court” of the house. The tenderly tapped schnitzel had plenty of spices under its crowned panade and was traditionally roasted with buttershed in the pan. Together with the melted cheese core, this was really not a dish for fat-avoiding calorie counters. But for that, a hearty example of defensive home kitchen. The “normal” Schnitzel Wiener Kunst (16 Euros) came with roast potatoes and additional salad. To make the crispy plastered part of the pig's back a little sweeter, an additional box with whist cream sauce was ordered. In her work, the colleague with the Schnitzel-Verdienstkreuz has a little lack of taste depth, which caused too hearty use of cream. On the other hand, the only spiced, spiced mushrooms (15 Euros from the gourmet that sits opposite me were praised several times. I look forward to my Bad Surf and Turf version (15 Euro). It was declared a “Main Court Visitor” and a little smaller. A fairly clear but butter-smoothed beef fillet was doubted by silky pea purees and some spun-on-flow cancers. In addition to delicately fragrant, yet slightly bite-resistant rosemary flakes, a impeccable dish was placed on good product quality, correct cooking times and a pleasant taste. With two portions of the homemade chocolate cake (3.80 euros and a graceful piece of the opulent heavenly cake (4.50 euros), our desire for a sweet conclusion was taken into account. The only small drop of wormwood this intrinsically coherent overall concept was the only very limited open selection of wines (which animated me to the Radler drink... . Shame, because with the corresponding drops the enjoyment of the finely prepared dishes would also increase. Everything else was fit in our evening. We enjoyed a grounded, honest kitchen that had to close careful preparations and craftsmanship and can only agree with the two operators when writing in the cover of their menu: “...Coke is love and cooking is also art!”.