Victor's Fine Dining By Christian Bau

Nevertheless, it must be clearly stated that – even if there are other restaurants that could give me a little more in terms of the overall package of cuisine, service and ambience/ atmosphere from the welfare factor – I could not spontaneously call a place where I was cooked better in my culinary life (which also saw my five companions in the rest) ... thank you for that!

What we enjoyed this evening – and we enjoyed it again. Christian Bau's kitchen is not less than a world class in every detail. Elizabeth Auerbach, whom I appreciated for many years, has been working on her extraordinary blog “elizabethonfood.com”, said about construction that he was the best cook for her generation. Now it has far more possibilities for comparison and experiences, but also for my more clear horizon, I do not want to contradict it.

Christian Bau has now also integrated bitter substances into its menu significantly. This increases the comfort of its well-known lush food sequences. Thus, the big menu is still a challenge, but by now a feasible one – and even if you eat like me one and a half slices of wonderful bread... And the bitters increase not only the comfort, but I also think the depth of the tastes, as shown above all in the Gamberoni. Christian Bau has thus further increased the quality of its meals. I also like the menu dramaturgy very well. At the beginning it is clearer Japanese. In the meantime, Japanese ingredients have also been more strongly absorbed into the dishes, which are more “European” from their basic plant. A really classic French dish I can't actually discover in the menu and so if the journey from the Japanese capital leads to Gefilde, which is today called a modernized classic and that is truly no disadvantage.

It's hard to imagine that there's something about Christian Bau in Germany. For years he has been cooking at a dizzying level, with a very own kitchen style that is unique in this country. It is already surprising why this is not much more important in the relevant, though sometimes critically questioned, world best lists.

Compared to my previous visit in May 2017, Christian Bau's kitchen has been further focused from my perspective. After the stylistic development of the menu concept Paris-Tokio and the associated presence of lighter sauces or Dashi, Christian Bau apparently took care of the amount of different flavors and dramaturgy throughout the menu and how I find a great result achieved. Although we had a slightly extended large menu, I can enjoy all the courses completely and up to the last bites, without any unpleasant feeling. Otherwise I made a building menu, now I can do it. I believe that this has to be done with corridors such as the artichoke that draw the feeling of saturation with bitter substances or the lighter Langoustine gear. The sauces also appeared easier. The Umami-Aromendruck also seems somewhat reduced to me. I like that very well. Perhaps by itself, this is not quite as expressive as in previous menus, the “manship game” of the individual courses in the menu is markedly improved for this and there is even more the impression of a journey. It seems to me that Christian Bau's kitchen has got some more corners and edges without giving up their virtues of precision and good taste. It just keeps working.