Restaurante Viscondes da Varzea

During our family trip to the Douro Valley, we had the pleasure of spending an unforgettable afternoon at Casa dos Viscondes da Varzea with Countess Maria. Located just 30 minutes from Pinhão, the Countess warmly welcomed us and shared captivating stories of her family's history during a pivotal period in Portugal. We were inspired by her journey of reclaiming the estate that had been expropriated by the government, showcasing her remarkable will, grit, and courage. One of the highlights of our visit was stepping into a historical kitchen. Guided by Countess Maria herself, we had the unique opportunity to cook a traditional lunch over a wood-fired hearth and stove. As we prepared the meal together, the Countess shared insights into the customs and culinary traditions of the region, immersing us in the rich local culture. Laughter and joy filled the air as we engaged in the culinary process, forging deeper connections with one another and creating memories to cherish. The ultimate reward came when we sat down to enjoy the delicious meal we had prepared together. Cooking with the Countess at Casa dos Viscondes da Varzea was a delightful blend of history, culture, and gastronomy. It allowed us to not only appreciate the beauty of the region but also to connect with its heritage on a personal level. This experience was a testament to the Countess's resilience and passion, leaving an indelible mark on our hearts and minds.

My husband and I enjoyed a fabulous afternoon with Countess Maria at her estate just outside of Lamego. From the moment we arrived, we were welcomed with open arms and an open heart. During a tour of the grounds and her magnificent home, Countess Maria shared her family's experiences through a monumental period in Portugal. We then proceeded to a historical kitchen, where we had the experience of cooking a delicious traditional lunch over a wood fired hearth and stove, all the while learning more about the customs of the area.

Gorgeous setting, truly stunning the views and little touches like fairy lights for when it gets dark is superb. Buffet concept is good value for those who aren’t vegetarian and like to try lots of different things, wine also included which is good/fair value (the latter if you can’t eat meat fish) at €35 pp. we had a cheese plate to share as we don’t like desserts, yet this was €40 for literally 3 pieces of cheese and bread, no olives, no chutney, no port etc. We did query this, but were were told it was right.

My wife and I visited the Countess Maria for an organized cooking session with her in one of the palace's old kitchens, using a stove and cooking pots dating back to the early 1800's. We had a truly delightful experience from the very first greeting, to the food preparation with her and her wonderful staff, to eating the meal we prepared. Maria's riches to rags to riches story is incredible. She is an amazing woman and a marvelous host who makes her guests feel immediately at home. While we did not stay at the hotel, we did look around. It is charming and beautifully appointed.

Had our dinners at a buffet style on the pergola terrace. Really good selection of dishes, all of quality. Loved their house label white, red not as much.